Half-term hols in Spain: Barcelona

Last week was our midterm break (properly known in England as “half-term holiday”) which I spent in three great Spanish cities with three amazing girls and one pair of TOMS shoes. It was an awesome experience and a successful first international trip without parents. There is a lot to cover (and way too many photos), so let me break it down by city. First up: Barcelona, where we spent our first three days.

On our first day in Barcelona we went for a walk, an all-day walk that was no less than 7 or 10 miles long. Worth it! There is no better way to get to know a new city than to walk around it. Highlights of our adventure included:

The Rambla del Mar

The Esglesia de Santa Maria del Mar, a 14th century gothic church

The Parc de la Ciutadella (with delicious apple tea and stroopwafel biscuits—we are so English now that we felt lost without afternoon tea)

La Barceloneta beach

We ended the day with a dinner of paella and sangria. We saw so much more than that, including one misguided trip through a very non-touristy area of Barcelona during which we looked up the street and caught a glimpse of the Sagrada Familia!

Which brings me to day 2: our “I love Gaudi” day.

Funny story: I saw a “Globe Trekker” on Gaudi’s unfinished Sagrada Familia cathedral before I left for London and thought, that is too gaudy and crazy for my taste and I don’t know how I feel about it. One look at the real-life Sagrada Familia and I was sold. I’m a huge Gaudi fan now. The cathedral itself is humongous and its final, and largest, tower is not even close to being finished. The outside is dripping with ornamentation on all sides except the front, which is more reserved. Gaudi clearly put thought into literally every inch of the place.

And the inside. The inside was breathtaking. I was literally speechless, and we all know that doesn’t happen very often. Let me just show you, then, the columns meant to be trees over the congregation and the incredibly vibrant stained glass windows that are just 10 years old and the calming white stone.

The interior was finished and dedicated by the Pope in 2010, over 100 years after the cathedral project began in 1883. Estimates for the date of the cathedral’s full completion range from 2020 to 2040, at which point I want to go back. People say that the Sagrada Familia alone is worth the trip to Spain, and people are right.

Next we went to Parc Guell, the park that Gaudi helped design and in which he lived for a few years. This has the famous mosaic lizard (which is smaller than we thought it would be, as famous as it is) and spectacular views of the city. We walked up to the top of the park, above most of the tourists, and took in the view, noting just how far we walked the previous day.

On our way back into the city center, we walked past two more Gaudi buildings: La Pedrera and Casa Batllo.

Casa Batllo on the left

Last stop of the day was the Picasso Museum, which had a lot of his early work and showed just how much talent and technique is behind his more abstract pieces. There was also a room dedicated to his study of the famous Velasquez painting “Las Meninas” which was doubly cool because we knew we were going to see the Velasquez painting in Madrid’s Prado Museum just a few days later.

Les Pains de Picasso by Robert Doisneau, 1952
This is one of my favorite photographs; I remember seeing it in early elementary school
and thinking it sooo funny. Print regret that I didn't get a copy in Barcelona.

On our final day in Barcelona we spent some time on the incredibly touristy street La Rambla and then we went to the Parc de Monjuic, a large park notable for having the national art museum of Catalunya and, more importantly, the Olympic stadium from Barcelona 1992! It was honestly kind of a dream come to true to stand under the torch and to go into the stadium; I was a baby during the Games and I have literally zero connection to them, but it was great to check “visit an Olympic site” off of my life to-do list. (Going to the Olympics is the next step, natch.)

Barcelona was great, sightseeing-wise, but it’s not my kind of city. (They are not kidding when they say Spanish men will check you out, and that was most prevalent in Barcelona.) Barcelona felt like a city dedicated to and desperately in need of tourists and while I cannot describe quite what else it was in the atmosphere that made me uncomfortable, I have no regrets about visiting. The Sagrada Familia, I’m telling you, you have to go.

Next stop: Valencia. xo

Shakespeare overload at Stratford-Upon-Avon

I hate English class. I love reading—so said my favorite childhood shirt—but analyzing the meaning behind an author’s use of “crimson” instead of “red” is enough to make me turn my back on the liberal arts altogether. So I can’t say I’ve ever felt a huge connection to the works of Shakespeare. Leonardo DiCaprio as Romeo? Love. “Much Ado” at the Globe? Awesome. Reading his works line by line and determining what makes him genius? Pass. I think high school English class ruined it for me.

Nevertheless, last Thursday we went on a whirlwind day-and-a-half trip to Stratford-Upon-Avon and I got a little Shakespeare-obsessed. It doesn’t hurt that Stratford is such an adorable town. Observe:

We stayed in an adorable bread & breakfast with a fantastic proprietor.

We saw Shakespeare’s grave.

We saw Shakespeare's birthplace. Did you know that beds used to have ropes underneath the mattresses to provide support, and so “goodnight, sleep tight” means “goodnight, hope your bed-ropes are tight so you’re comfortable?” True story. (We also saw a few other sites that were sort of maybe kind of connected to Shakespeare.)

We saw “Macbeth” performed by the Royal Shakespeare Company. Mixed reviews, but I thought it was great. The RSC did away with the witches and replaced them with children—super creepy.

We had drinks and tea and bonded.

We saw Anne Hathaway’s cottage and ate deliciously crisp apples from her trees.

On our way back to London, some of us stopped off in Warwick because we were told that the medieval castle is well preserved and something to see. It better be well preserved as it cost £21 to get in! (It was more expensive if you wanted to see the haunted dungeon or the dragon tower.) Obvs, we passed. Instead we climbed the tower at St. Mary’s Church and had great views of the castle and the tiny town.

The English countryside is beautiful, and Stratford is absolutely charming. The town may take the Shakespeare connection a bit far sometimes (the desk his schoolteacher might have stood behind!) but who wouldn’t? Willy, we’re friends now. I’ll definitely come back and visit again. xo

Indian summer interlude

I don’t sunburn (except on my nose, a distressing new development). I tan. And there is no better evidence of the beautiful, hot days last weekend than my stunning and enduring TOMS tan line. Lookin good.

In other news, just busted out my first essays of the term: a report to PM David Cameron on the Scottish devolution/independence issue, and an essay on the role of the European Court of Justice in the integration of the EU. I feel rather isolated from US news; basically, I only know what goes on in US politics based on twitter updates from @nytimes and @barackobama and from scanning the key stories written up in the Guardian. 

typical studying aka taking gratuitous photos of myself
PS that's my second cup of tea...at 11am.

For the past two weeks I’ve been going to the young adult bible study-like night at my local church, and tonight I got into a really interesting discussion with some of the girls about how no one in the UK thinks of studying abroad while at uni because they have Europe literally at their doorstep. This, combined with my afternoon spent looking into my Geneva program next term, has me feeling incredibly grateful and blessed for this opportunity, for this year abroad. I feel like my worldview has already expanded tenfold and I’ve been here just a month.

So thanks mom and dad and everyone for helping make this happen. It’s incredible, and I’m excited to be here every single day. xo

Four weeks have gone by in a flash

The lack of interesting stories that I have from this week is, I think, a sign that I have settled in here and started to fall into a routine. We’ve gotten to that point where the “study” part of “study abroad” starts to kick in, so I have to buckle down and start to earn my poli sci degree. Still, life here is awesome. Highlights of last week included:

- Going to “The Tempest” (eh, okay but I can’t wait to see it with Ralph Finnes) and “The Kitchen” (awesome).

- Having a Mars Bars milkshake.

- Getting from bed to the train in 30 minutes exactly (I overslept my alarm for the first time ever, whomp whomp).

- Going to Harrods and Hamley’s. Harrods is sort of like a giant, posh Nordstrom. I got to touch a Valentino scarf and Marchesa gowns (I could finally put my people.com obsession to use by recognizing all the brands), and I realized that I would be so much better dressed if I was wealthy. Although in all honesty, I would probably just wear nicer v-necks.

Hamley’s is a huge toy store, basically the toy store from “Home Alone 2.” Too bad there were no robber traps.

- Seeing the London Eye in this light...

...and not being able to go on it because I was going to the Royal Ballet! I saw them perform Balanchine’s “Jewels,” part of which I saw OBT perform years ago.

My seats were literally in the nosebleeds, and, standing, I could see ¾ of the stage but it was an amazing ballet performed by absolutely stunning dancers. It’s no wonder the Royal Ballet is one of the best companies in the world.

- Skyping with Erika :)

- Going to Portobello Market and listening to a Mumford and Sons-esque local band play a cover of “Lovin’s for Fools.”

It’s 80 degrees F here, which is a September/October record for London. It’s like Portland in that no one is really sure how to deal with hot weather. More opportunities for milkshakes, I say. xo

Field trip to Scotland? Count me in

On Wednesday, my fellow study abroaders and I went to Edinburgh, Scotland, for three days. I had never been to Scotland but now I can’t wait until I have a chance to go back. Edinburgh was beautiful - full of medieval buildings, greenery, and open spaces that were so refreshing to see after living in a crowded city.

The first thing we did, after our four and a half hour train ride, was go up to Edinburgh Castle. The castle itself was pretty cool - we got to see the room where Mary, Queen of Scots, gave birth to James IV of Scotland / James I of England, complete with the original painted ceiling - but it was the view that was really stunning. I fell in love with Edinburgh from my first glance and could happily have skipped the audio tour (I know, who am I?) and just taken in the view forever.

We ate dinner at the hostel and had chicken wrapped in bacon and stuffed with wild rice. Well, I'm 90% sure it was wild rice but more and more people are saying it was haggis so if it was, then haggis is actually pretty good.

Thursday morning we went to the Scottish Parliament and got to sit in on part of a debate. It was on the Common Fisheries Policy and what was awesome was that I could follow the debate thanks to my EU Econ class. Hollerrr, I love political science. Only problem was, the panels on the outside of Parliament looked like guns - anyone else see this? Definitely off-putting, and surely not an accident.

After that, we went to the National Museum of Scotland. It was a mishmash of things from dinosaurs to Scottish history, but the prehistoric exhibit was really well presented. Isn’t this a great way of showing jewelry?

We had lunch at The Elephant Cafe aka the birthplace of Harry Potter, and then some of us hiked to the top of Arthur’s Seat. Or at least tried to - we might not have been on the right path and it was partially blocked off, but we got a nice, short, uphill hike in and some great views so I think that counts.

Are you tired of skyline photos yet?

Then I went to tea with some of the girls at an adorable tea shop, where we got shortbread and Scottish Breakfast tea. If my Gramma had a tea shop it would look like that one, and I wish we had places like it in the US. That evening we went to dinner and then drinks and had some really great conversations and bonding time. That was the beauty of this trip - we all grew closer as a group.

Friday we climbed Calton Hill, where there are numerous monuments including the National Monument, modeled after the Parthenon, and a monument to Admiral Lord Nelson of the Battle at Trafalgar. Only 170 steps to the top, and well worth it.

The National Monument

Our train ride home was just as beautiful as on the way there - the first half was along the coast, and the second half looked like the drive from Portland to Eugene. It was a great trip and I def recommend that everyone visit Edinburgh. I’ll come with you! xo

From the train

2 weeks feels like 2 months

Have I really only been here for two weeks? Time is moving so slowly - I’m not complaining, but it still blows my mind that UO hasn’t started school yet or that I was in Portland two weeks ago. London is starting to feel like my city; like a home and not just a destination I’m touring for three months.

Lots to report on, and we all know I like telling stories, so I will try to share just the highlights.

Last Saturday I went on a major walk with two friends. We hit up Soho for lunch and walked along Oxford Street, which is a major shopping destination, ending up in Hyde Park.

We wandered along the edge of the park to Green Park and then, boom, Buckingham Palace emerged.

 

We walked through St. James Park to get to the river, and walked through the Thames Festival to cross Westminster Bridge and see Houses of Parliament and hear Big Ben strike 5:00.

You can’t be that close to Westminster Abbey and not stop by, so we ended our trek there, chilling on the steps and watching two different wedding parties take photos in the wind (thanks, Hurricanes Irene and Katia).

Sunday, I went to the local church and we sang my all time favorite hymn. I spent the evening at the Thames Festival where I made a poor choice of food cart and watched the weirdest, least cohesive, most brightly-lit parade that I have ever seen.

Wednesday, my London Bio class climbed 311 steps to the top of The Monument to see our beautiful city.

Wednesday and Thursday evenings we went to Shakespeare’s Globe to see the most amazing theatre productions I have ever seen. Wednesday night we saw “Much Ado About Nothing” as “groundlings” who stand on the floor like the lower classes of Shakespeare’s day.

It was amazing. Seriously hilarious and incredibly well acted. The butler from “Fresh Prince of Bel Air” was in it, as well as some other lesser-known film and tv actors, but I didn’t even realize that until afterwards, I was just so enthralled; the actors played with the audience and looked like they were having so much fun. Julia’s London travel tip #1: it’s only £5 to be a groundling and it’s so worth it; unless you have a super tall person in front of you (see that super tall guy in the photo above...yeah) the people standing have the best seats in the house and it’s so fun and engaging that you forget you’ve been standing for four hours.

Thursday night I managed to get an extra ticket to go with the theatre class to see Marlowe’s “Doctor Faustus” and again, it was just so good. This time we sat, so I could watch the actors and the audience (I’ve been people watching like none other on this trip.)

Also happening: my internship, discovering an awesome food market, and generally forgetting to do schoolwork (don’t worry mom, we just don’t have any to do). Things are super busy, but I do like being busy, so it’s suiting me just fine. xo

Week 1 of dream fulfillment

Guys, I’m here. Six years after I ignored jet lag, took my first look outside our Kensington flat, and promised myself that I would study abroad in London HERE I AM.

Photo cred: my dorky dad

My host mum (When I say that fast it apparently sounds like “husband,” and on the first day a girl asked if I was married, awk.) is named Maggie and she is darling; she’s an excellent cook and grows her own organic vegetables so I am going to learn to like a lot of vegs while I’m here. It’s just the two of us out here in Northwood, which is about an hour’s commute from central London. It’s a long trip, but there are textbooks and free newspapers to read. I feel like a true Londoner when I can walk fast and transition trains without a problem. (Everyone here walks fast - I fit right in!) My goal is to be able to jaywalk confidently, and I’m already getting close.

Monday and Tuesday were orientation days, and Tuesday we also went to the Tower of London which was just as cool the second time around. Those Crown Jewels...ahmazing. I walked around the Tower with Caitlin who is also a history major at UO in the Honors College, so we history geeked out together.

Houses of Parliament and Big Ben as seen from the Thames

I love that people actually live at the Tower of London.
"Hi, can you send a pizza delivery to house 6, the Tower of London?"

Today we had the first day of classes - I had “Economic Integration of the European Union” and “London: Biography of a City.” The EU class should be super interesting (nerd alert); we’ll get to go to Parliament and adopt the London School of Economics as our home base. The London class sounds easy as it’s lots of museums and tour-y walks. I’ll start the required “Modern Britain” class tomorrow and Friday I ride the tube for an hour and a half (whaat) to the first meeting with my internship director.

Also, today I went for a walk before class and ended up at St. Paul’s Cathedral, nbd.

Plan: go to choral evensong at St. Paul’s, Holy Communion in the chapel at the Tower of London, organ concerts at Westminster Abbey, and Sunday services at my local Anglican church, the Wood Green Mennonite Church, and Hillsong London. Good thing I have quite a few Sundays.

I’m still adjusting (the water here is terrible in taste and in hair-washing power, gross) but I am excited to be in London and can’t wait to get into a routine and start to feel like I really do live here.

I may be 8 hours ahead of Oregon, but I would still love to skype with everyone so let’s get on that. Mailing address to come. Sending my love stateside, Julia